Hidden on a dark, cobblestone street amongst its navy yard neighbor, Vinegar Hill House only became visible when its soft interior glow began emanating into the street. Our curiosity grew when we slid through a group of giggling seemingly satiated diners. Despite our desolate walk through industrial Dumbo, the trek was well worth it. The moment we entered into the blushing hearth, we felt comfortable cozying up to the young bohemians and older regulars from down-the-block. At 9pm on a Thursday night, the tables and the copper-topped bar were crowded with cool clientele.
Hanging out by the bar to wait for a table proved to be no second-rate experience—it was a tight fit, but dancing around the attractive servers was part of the fun. Those who get claustrophobic easily might find this feature unattractive, thankfully downstairs dining, and a large warm-weather patio offer more space. Content at the bar, we perused at leisure the list of libations. Old standards (Old Overholt, Plymouth gin, etc.), as well as some unusual and well-chosen liquors were present. The knowledgeable and patient bartender started us off with old-time cocktails, such as the Dixie Sling—bourbon, Italian vermouth, and lemon juice. Whole-heartedly he guided us through the menu and helped us pair a $35 sulfite-free dynamic mauzac blend white wine with our meal, enjoyed alongside $3 Genesee Cream Ale cans. And while the small wooden tables offer a heightened sense of intimacy, we were so comfortable with our seats at the bar that the four of us decided to eat from there, delighting in the easy visual access to the tiny open kitchen outfitted with the chef and two cooks and an active wood burning oven. The snug open plan, scattered cacti plants and ceramic pots provide such a cozy atmosphere it could be home—if you have co-owner Sam Buffa’s eye for authentic Americana decorative objects. But what’s coming out of the kitchen is far from homely, thanks to his partner and wife, executive chef Jean Adamson.
While the menu is small, the seasonally conscious offerings are inviting and diverse—from the vegetarian to the meat-laden, and everything in-between. Because so many dishes appealed to our party we decided to make selections from each section of the menu and share. Though the menu appeared to feature standard traditional American fare—pork, pot pie, and cast iron chicken—the flavors surprised us and satisfied a range of cravings. We began with tender clams paired with a smoky and silky broth that re-interpreted Moroccan mahamara. The house-made pastas—like the maltagliati with braised oxtail, octopus and breadcrumbs, and the bone marrow ravioli with black pepper, saluggia beans, and parmesan—provided the perfect middle course. The portions were not large, but the sauces are so rich and savory that a second bowl of bread was welcome. The sizable and expertly cooked Red Wattle Country Chop paired with sauerkraut quickly disappeared from its wooden board as we battled for unadorned bites of mind-blowing flavor. And even though we so enjoyed our salubrious decision to have a side of Brussels sprouts, when we eyed the cheese and jalapeno grits further down the bar, we couldn’t help but order them for ourselves. They arrived immediately and we were able to enjoy the creamy hominy with the last bites of meat—a heady combination. By this point we were rather full but again fell for temptation, and indeed the dense Guinness chocolate cake and crumbly plumb tart served as divine closer to our meal.
The service and culinary execution were so professional and yet without pretense that when we realized we were the last guests around 12:00 am, we wished we could stay and do it all again. No one made us feel like we were loitering, but our full bellies guided us home, well aware we would be back soon.
Jenna and Sasha Levine
Vinegar Hill House
72 Husdon Ave., Brooklyn (btwn Water and Front)
(718) 522-1018
Dinner hours: Mon-Thu 6pm-11pm; Fri & Sat 6pm-11:30pm; Sun 5:30-11pm
Brunch hours: Sat & Sun 11am-3:30pm
F to York, A/C to High Street
Price: Appetizers $9-$12, Entrees $17-$25Full Bar and Wine, Drinks $3 – 11
Reservations only for parties of 4 or larger
1 Comment | Posted on March 7, 2011 | Categories: Brooklyn, Brooklyn Heights & Dumbo, Dining, From the Blog
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