Fusion Cuisine has become the trademark of Manhattan dining, but nowadays a mixed culinary heritage alone won’t fill tables. Itzocan Bistro, Spanish Harlem’s newest French-Mexican digs, is a new approach to eclectic cooking that makes the pioneers of Nouvelle, Tex-Mex, and California fusion seem conservative.

Surrounded by Bodegas and Dominican coffee shops, the cozy dining space seats six tables and provides an intimate dining experience for under $25 a person.

The team of chefs at Itzocan boast the following credentials: they have all been trained in classical French culinary institutes, they have all worked in high-end French restaurants, and they are all Mexican. The result is an eclectic cooking venture that celebrates the robust flavors, signature sauces and regional ingredients that define each country’s culinary identity.

Appetizer highlights include baked pear stuffed with gorgonzola-walnut oil, escargots in pastry with poblano peppers, and goat cheese flan with a tomato and cilantro salsa. Entrees range in price from $17-$22, and include sautéed prawns a la Provencal with white wine, shallots and tomatoes; a pork roast with Mexican Madeira sauce; and the winner, an adobo marinated duck breast with sweet potatoes.

Itzocan Bistro offers a Mussel Special every Monday night, from 6-10pm. Although shellfish are not traditionally placed in the all-you-can eat category, the delicious white wine and cilantro broth is hard to resist. Unlimited servings for just $15 are worth the dirty looks you get from the waiter after your fifth serving.

Overall, Itzocan Bistro offers dishes that are as sophisticated and delicious as those of a five-star restaurant but without the excessively chic décor and wallet-emptying prices.

—Austin Moukattaf

• subway: 6 train to 103rd
• address: 1575 Lexington Ave. (@ 101st St)
• phone: 212-423-0255
• website: http://www.itzocanbistro.com/
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5 Comments | Posted on February 25, 2010 | Categories: Dining, From the Blog, Harlem, Uncategorized

tags: Austin Moukattaf, cozy, date spot, Dining, Food, French, fusion, intimate, lively, mexican, mussels, spanish harlem