273 W 38 St (near 8th Ave). 212-730-5555. 10 55am-9 55pm. 1237NRQWS to 42nd, ACE to 34th or 42nd. Plates $5.50-9.50.
If the lines are any indication, this fast food joint receives more than its fair share of attention. Two stars share the show: Japanese curry and Hideki Matsui (“Go” is Japanese for 5, and Matsui’s number is 55). The latter may not be there in the flesh, but the entire restaurant pays homage to, if not idolizes, the Yankee outfielder. As for the food, the curry is available in five sizes with any of four breaded meat toppings (the pork katsu is best). Skeptics might initially be put off by the strange brown goop ladled over rice, but will indubitably be silenced after savoring just one bite. With ineffable flavor that hints at a mix of vegetables and spices, the curry is a reminder of home for Japanese expats and a new darling for first-timers. Go on the 5th, 15th, or 25th of every month for special coupons.

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